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Rome, Orvieto, & Tivoli
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For about 45 minutes, Mark drove the four of us to Masseria Lamacerase, our place of lodging in Polignano a Mare. Mark and Roxi Crews had arrived a few hours earlier. Traveling buddies Leah Stiver and Teresa Cooper checked in later. Teresa served as the driver of a second vehicle when needed. We met for supper under a grapevine arbor at 9:00. It was shortly after midnight before we got to bed. We took sleeping pills and were soon asleep.
DAY 3 About 10:30, Mark Story drove us into Polignano a Mare, where he led us on a Discovery Walk of the town. It was a beautiful day with plenty of sunshine and pleasant temperature in the 70s. Our group stopped for lunch together at 1:30 at a pizzeria. The Coles and Walkers enjoyed insalata caprese and Margherita pizzas. Before going back to the parking lot, we all stopped at a gelateria for gelato. Jeannie remained in town with Leah and Teresa to shop while the rest of us returned to our villas about 3 p.m. Mark Story brought them back to our lodging compound around 5:30. Beginning about sundown, once again we ate a several-course Italian meal outdoors under the grapevine arbor. We enjoyed celebrating Mark Crews’ birthday with an Italian cake. Our evening meal finished shortly before 11 p.m.
DAY 4 For our afternoon free time, five of us were transported by Mark Story at 12:30, about 2½ miles to Villa Delle Rose Puglia. There the property owner, Rina, guided us around her olive grove, which has a great view of the Adriatic Sea. She provided us a very educational tasting of olive oil made from her trees. Then in the shade of an olive tree she presented us with a delicious lunch all created from local ingredients. After Mark Story returned to pick us up about 3:30, we continued to enjoy the experience. We purchased some lavender oil that was produced from Rina’s lavender fields. By 4:30 we were back in our rooms. Our tour group met at 6:30 p.m. to ride into Polignano a Mare. We enjoyed the most awesome experience of a six-course meal at Ristorante Grotta Palazzese, built in a sea cave with a terrific view of the Adriatic Sea. After the meal our group was transported in two vehicles back to the parking site. A few of us were privileged to share the ride with the restaurant owner, who graciously answered our many questions about his very unique restaurant. By 10:20 we were all back in our rooms. As usual for the two of us, we took sleeping pills for the 3rd night in a row. Years ago we found that taking sleeping pills the first 3 nights helps us avoid jet lag in an overseas country. We repeat this practice for our first 3 nights after we return home. Otherwise the 7-hour time difference with Italy would take at least a week to overcome.
DAY 5 A local guide led us for a couple hours among the unique trulli houses with their cone-shaped stone roofs. Except for a brief, light rain, it was a pleasurable walk. After a quick light lunch we traveled to Matera. We were in our hotel rooms at the Sant'Angelo Luxury Hotel around 3:30. At 4 o’clock the two of us climbed about a hundred steps with Mark Story. We stopped for gelato when we reached the top. Mark left us at the cathedral where we paid a quick visit inside. Admission cost 4 euros each. We were a bit surprised that we two found our way back to our hotel room without making a wrong turn onto any of the intersecting stairways. Our group met for refreshments on a hotel terrace at 5:30. At 7:30 most of us climbed the stairway to Ristorante La Gattabuia (which translates as “the dark cat”). Three of our folks rode in a taxi to the restaurant. After our meal, everyone walked down the dimly lit stairs to return to our rooms about 10:30.
DAY 6 We stopped to look inside Santa Lucia alle Malve church. It was carved out of the hillside stone in the 9th century. It was evident that the original style was Greek Orthodox then repurposed as Roman Catholic. One of its unique features is that people were never buried beneath the church, but had been buried above the church. The cave is now used as a place of worship only when the feast day of Santa Lucia is celebrated on 13 December. We also stopped to investigate an ancient house cave dwelling site called Casa Grotta del Vicinato. It was meticulously decorated with everything one would find when it had been occupied, including reproductions of a donkey and chickens kept inside the home. Temperature was in the 70s but felt much hotter when we were often walking in the sunshine. The walking tour concluded at 11:30 in the Piazza Vittorio Veneto, the heart of modern Matera. We enjoyed a light lunch with the Walkers and Crews. Michael returned to the hotel about 1:00 with Gil and the Crews. Jeannie and Linda remained on top of the hill to shop, returning to the hotel about 3 p.m. At 6 p.m. we joined the Crews and Walkers for a one-hour tuk-tuk ride around Matera. We squeezed three people into the backseat of each vehicle. Upon return to our hotel, the six of us walked to a nearby trattoria where we enjoyed our evening meal together. We were back in our rooms by 8:30.
DAY 7 We met our tour group in the hotel lobby at 7:15, then walked to Il Ristoro dei Templari for our evening meal together in Lecce. We were back in our room shortly after 10 o’clock.
DAY 8 We spent 9:30 to 12:45 walking to several sights with a local guide. We visited the inside of the Lecce Cathedral and the Basilica di Santa Croce. Just as the tour finished, it began to rain. We were all glad it was just a block to walk back to our hotel. It was barely sprinkling when we began searching for a restaurant for lunch. We were glad we chose to eat indoors when a downpour began with lots of wind and loud thunder. The rain completely stopped shortly after we finished our meal. Around 3 o’clock, Jeannie left with Linda, Leah, and Teresa to shop. Michael went searching for gelato. At 7 o’clock we walked a few blocks with Mark and Roxi Crews to a trattoria for supper and conversation. We were back at the hotel around 9 o’clock.
DAY 9 Leaving the hotel about 10 o’clock, Mark Story drove Leah, Teresa, Michael, and Jeannie to Otranto. The Crews and Walkers chose to remain in Lecce for a quieter experience. We arrived in Otranto in the heel of the boot of southeast Italy on the Adriatic Sea about 11 o’clock. We first walked around inside the Aragonese Castle, built in the 15th century at the edge of the Adriatic Sea. Sometimes one can see Albania from the top of the castle, but it was too hazy across the sea when we were there. Next we visited the Cathedral of Santa Maria Annunziata, where we saw the bones of the “martyrs of Otranto” who were massacred by Ottoman invaders in 1480. We stopped for insalata caprese and pizza Margarita con prosciutto crudo for lunch at Trattoria Pizzeria La Caletta, overlooking the sea. Then there was some time for shopping before a brief stop for gelato. Soon after 2 o’clock we left Otranto and traveled 6 kilometers north to Baia del Turchi (Turkey Bay). It was on this beach that the Ottoman Turks invaded in 1480. Shortly before 4 o’clock, we began the drive back to Lecce. We were back in our room about 5 o’clock. At 6:30 p.m. we walked with everyone to our evening meal at La Cucina di Mamma Elvira. We began walking back to the hotel about 9 o’clock, in time to pack for departure the following morning.
DAY 10 Our train arrived about 1 p.m. at Roma Termini, Rome's main train station. From there we walked, pulling our luggage the few blocks to the Best Western Plus Hotel Universo. We were immediately able to check in. By 2 p.m. we six were heading to lunch a few blocks away. We had a delicious meal at L’Angolo di Napoli, a restaurant with the Vera Pizza Napoletana certification. We rode the Metro subway to the Spanish Steps, but from underground we could not locate the best exit. We disappointedly came out an 18-minute walk from where we wanted to be. Our path took us to the top of the 135 steps about 4 o’clock. After descending the Spanish Steps (that were built by the French in the 1720s), we sat to rest outdoors at a restaurant where we enjoyed gelato. The Crews decided to return to the hotel to rest. We continued walking on with the Walkers. We stopped briefly at Trevi Fountain around 5:30. We were outside the Pantheon about 6 o’clock. We walked through Piazza Navona on our way to supper. At 6:45 we arrived for our 7:00 reservation at Ristorante Pancrazio dal 1922. We ate at an outside table. We were disappointed that the downstairs dining area was full. The basement of this restaurant contains the remains of the Theatre of Pompey, near the site where Julius Caesar was assassinated. We spent a few minutes there after finishing our meals. About 8 o’clock we found a taxi to ride back to our hotel. After getting lost, the cab driver eventually got us to our hotel about 8:30.
DAY 11 We arrived at the Orvieto train station about 10:30. We felt very fortunate to immediately find a taxi for all six of us. We reached the Piazza Duomo with plenty of time to spare. If we had arrived after 11:00, we would have lost our reserved tickets. We enjoyed a guided tour into the fascinating Orvieto Underground man-made caves from 11:15 to 12:15. Next we spent about half an hour exploring inside the Orvieto Duomo. We found an out-of-the-way trattoria for lunch. Then we walked to Piazza Cahen, stopping for gelato along the way. We were on a bus back to the Orvieto train station at 2:45. Our train to Rome left the station about 3:30 p.m. and arrived at Roma Termini about 5 o’clock. We walked to our hotel, then walked back to the train station at 6:30 to enjoy our evening meal at Eataly. With lots of nice shops at the train station, we left the terminal when they closed at 9 o’clock.
DAY 12 We had several blocks to walk to Hadrian’s Villa after getting off the bus. We only stayed about an hour. We left on another bus which required tickets different from what we had purchased earlier. This bus took us within a few blocks of where we wanted to be next. After eating lunch, we walked just a couple blocks to Villa D’Este. We enjoyed the many fountains in the gardens there for about an hour. Not finding a taxi or bus, we decided to walk the three-fourths mile to the train station. Our phones showed that we walked 5.8 miles total on this day. It would have been much more fun if Tivoli was more "tourist friendly." We were frequently crossing paths with equally confused tourists about how to get from place to place. The bus drivers told us we were choosing the right buses, yet they had us get off far from where we were going. We were back in Rome around 4:30 and couples went their separate ways. The two of us got some gelato on our way to the hotel. Just the two of us went back to the nearby Vera Pizza Napoletana certified restaurant for supper.
DAY 13 Everyone met in the hotel lobby at 7:40, then walked a couple blocks to a bus. There was plenty of sunshine with temperature starting in the upper 50s. By 8:30 we were at the Roman Colosseum where we divided into two groups, each with a tour guide. From 10:30 to 11:30 our guide shared details as we walked through the nearby ancient Roman Forum. By 12:15 we were all back at the hotel. At 12:30 Michael and Jeannie left with Keith and Sharon Lancaster. We walked to L’Angolo di Napoli, the Vera Pizza Napoletana certified restaurant for lunch. We stopped at a gelateria to enjoy gelato, then walked to a nearby pharmacy to find an item needed by the Lancasters. We were back at the hotel at 3 o’clock and rested the remainder of the afternoon. We went to supper with the Crews and Walkers about 6:45 at a restaurant about a half block from the hotel. We were back in our rooms before 8:30.
DAY 14 We then walked to Saint Peter’s Square. We were disappointed that the line into the cathedral was too long for us to enter before time to leave. We found a nearby restaurant for lunch at 1:45. Fourteen of us boarded a tour bus at 3 o’clock. Twelve other people in our group had already found alternate transportation. The bus trip took about 30 minutes back to our hotel. At 4 o’clock nine of us walked a couple blocks to one of Rome’s best gelaterias, Il Capriccio di Carla. We all ate gelato sitting and having fun together in nearby Piazza del Viminale till about 5 o’clock. We were back in our hotel a few minutes later. With a 6:30 reservation we walked a couple blocks to eat at Maestro Bistro with the Crews and Walkers.
DAY 15 |
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We landed in Madrid, Spain, at 9:30, forty minutes ahead of schedule. Our next flight was on American Airlines. We departed for the 5,000 mile trip to Dallas-Fort Worth about 1 p.m. Lunch was served about an hour after takeoff. A light meal was served an hour before landing. We were back on U.S. soil about 4 p.m. We took advantage of sitting comfortably in the airlines lounge while waiting for our final flight.
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